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Recent Entries

The New Madrid Earthquakes of 1811-12

Sacagawea’s Children in St Louis

What happened to Sacagawea’s children?

Aaron Burr, Meriwether Lewis and the Burr-Wilkinson Conspiracy, Part 1

Book TV provides insight into Aaron Burr’s character

Lewis and Clark for libraries; Boy Scout, Girl Scout and 4-H leaders

Lewis and Clark Mystery Map at NAVTEQ MAPS Exhibit

Jefferson at Home: Personal Reminiscences

Thomas Jefferson’s Monticello: the Ultimate House and Garden Experience

Meriwether Lewis’s Fateful Encounter with the Blackfeet: Was It a Set-Up?

Meriwether Lewis Events on the Divide and at Harper’s Ferry, July 7, 2007

Poking Around the Mississippi: Buffalo Bill, Nathaniel Pryor and Ulysess S Grant

Lewis and Clark Road Trips at Offutt Air Force Base in Bellevue, Nebraska

Pipestone National Monument, a Peaceful Place in Southwestern Minnesota

Lewis & Clark Statue Serves as Missouri River Flood Marker in St Louis

Lewis and Clark Road Trips Book Wins a 2006 Midwest Independent Publishers Award

Lewis and Clark Memories: Catfish Dinners and Earth Lodges on the Missouri River

Meriwether Lewis Flower Lewisia or Bitterroot Discovered in Grocery Store

How Did the United States Acquire Title to Indian Lands?

Escape from Death and a Sister’s Revenge: the Daughters of Omaha Chief Big Elk

St Joseph Missouri Has a Unique Combination of Museums

Lewis & Clark Statue Underwater Near St Louis Arch and Eads Bridge

Cahokia Mounds, a World Heritage Site, Near Lewis and Clark’s Wood River Camp

Cantonment Wilkinsonville, A 200 Year Old Secret Military Base in Southern Illinois Is Revealed

Movie Reviews: History Comes Alive in A Night at the Museum

Vote for Pvt. George Shannon in Yankton SD Name the Bridge Contest

Break Dancing with Lewis and Clark on New Year’s Day 1805: Mandan Indian Villages, North Dakota

Christmas Days With Lewis and Clark (1803-1806): Excerpts From Their Journals and 2006 Annual Events

Lewis and Clark War Vessels, Then and Now

ITs WOOT Chinook Canoe Comes to Clarksville, Indiana

Gary Moulton Reviews Bicentennial

Google Earth Adds Historic 1814 Lewis and Clark Map

Best Books on Sacagawea

Sakakawea Country, New Town, North Dakota

Crow Indians, Lewis and Clark, and the Battle of Little Bighorn, Montana

Signing at the Signature Rock, Pompey’s Pillar near Billings, Montana

Lewis and Clark Road Trips Congressional Briefing

Author Goes Sightseeing in Washington DC

Lewis and Clark Road Trips Debuts at Book Expo in Washington DC

Page 1 of 3 pages  1 2 3 >

Monday, April 28, 2008

The New Madrid Earthquakes of 1811-12

The New Madrid earthquakes were the biggest earthquakes in American history. They occurred in the central Mississippi Valley, but were felt as far away as New York City, Boston, Montreal, and Washington D. C. President James Madison and his wife Dolly felt them in the White House. Church bells rang in Boston. From December 16, 1811 through March of 1812 there were over 2,000 earthquakes in the central Midwest, and between 6,000-10,000 earthquakes in the Bootheel of Missouri where New Madrid is located near the junction of the Ohio and Mississippi Rivers.

In the known history of the world, no other earthquakes have lasted so long or produced so much evidence of damage as the New Madrid earthquakes. Three of the earthquakes are on the list of America’s top earthquakes: the first one on December 16, 1811, a magnitude of 8.1 on the Richter scale; the second on January 23, 1812, at 7.8; and the third on February 7, 1812, at as much as 8.8 magnitude. The source of these magnitude estimates is the USGS. The other material comes from the book, The Earthquake America Forgot listed at the end of this blog.

The Mississippi ran backwards After the February 7th earthquake, boatmen reported that the Mississippi actually ran backwards for several hours. The force of the land upheaval 15 miles south of New Madrid created Reelfoot lake, drowned the inhabitants of an Indian village; turned the river against itself to flow backwards; devastated thousands of acres of virgin forest; and created two temporary waterfalls in the Mississippi. Boatmen on flatboats actually survived this experience and lived to tell the tale.

Getting over cracks As the general area experienced more than 2,000 earthquakes in five months, people discovered that most of crevices opening up during an earthquake ran from north to south, and when the earth began moving, they would chop down trees in an east- west direction and hold on using the tree as a bridge. There were “missing people” who were most likely swallowed up by the earth. Some earthquake fissures were as long as five miles.

Strange Earthquake Phenonema Sand boils: The world’s largest sand boil was created by the New Madrid earthquake. It is 1.4 miles long and 136 acres in extent, located in the Bootheel of Missouri, about 8 miles west of Hayti, Missouri. Locals call it “The Beach.” Other, much smaller, sand boils are found throughout the area. Seismic tar balls: Small pellets up to golf ball sized tar balls are found in sand boils and fissures. They are petroleum that has been solidified, or “petroliferous nodules.” Earthquake lights: Lights flashed from the ground, caused by quartz crystals being squeezed. The phenomena is called “seismoluminescence.” Warm water: Water thrown up by an earthquake was lukewarm. The authors speculate that shaking caused the water to heat up and/or quartz light heated the water. Earthquake smog: The skies turned dark during an earthquake, so dark that lighted lamps didn’t help. The air smelled bad, and it was hard to breathe. The authors speculate it was a smog containing dust particles caused by the eruption of warm water into cold air. Loud thunder: Sounds of distant thunder and loud explosions accompanied earthquakes. Animal warnings: People reported strange behavior by animals before the earthquakes. They were nervous and excited. Domestic animals became wild, and wild animals became tame. Snakes came out of the ground from hibernation. Flocks of ducks and geese landed near people.

Tecumseh’s Comet and the Battle of Tippecanoe

The earthquakes were preceded by the appearance of a great comet, which was visible around the globe for seventeen months, and was at its brightest during the earthquakes. The comet, with an orbit of 3,065 years, was last seen during the time of Ramses II in Egypt. In 1811-1812, it was called “Tecumseh’s Comet” (or “Napoleon’s Comet” in Europe). Tecumseh was a Shawnee Indian leader whose name meant “Shooting Star” or “He who walks across the sky.” He was given this name at birth. A great orator and military leader, Tecumseh organized a confederation of Indian tribes to oppose the takeover of 3 million acres of Indian lands, which were obtained by the Treaty of Fort Wayne in 1809. His brother, a religious leader called “The Prophet,” had gained fame when he foretold the total eclipse of the sun on June 16, 1806. (They had learned about it in advance from a team of visiting astronomers.) During this time, the Governor of Indiana Territory William Henry Harrison--worried about The Prophet’s popularity--had challenged him to produce a miracle. After the day of the “Black Sun” the brothers had no trouble attracting followers. A Black Sun was said to predict a future war. On September 17, 1811 there was another solar eclipse—which, again, was predicted by The Prophet. The brothers’ center of operations was at Prophet’s Town, located near the junction of the Wabash and Tippecanoe Rivers in northern Indiana. Tecumseh was traveling and recruiting warriors among the southeastern tribes, when Governor Harrison attacked Prophet’s Town with over a 1,000 men on November 6, 1811, a pre-emptive strike by the U. S., which marked the beginning of “Tecumseh’s War.” On December 16th, when the earthquakes began, Tecumseh was at the Shawnee and Delaware Indian villages near Cape Girardeau, 50 miles north of the epicenter at New Madrid. The earthquakes continued as he traveled back to Prophet’s Town, arriving there in February, 1812. Tecumseh’s followers lost the Battle of Tippecanoe, but they continued to fight as allies of the British during the War of 1812 between the United States and Great Britain. Tecumseh was killed in battle in Canada in 1813. He is honored as one of the greatest of Indian leaders, both in the United States, and in Canada, where he is considered a national hero.

The first steamboat on the western waters survived the earthquakes

The first steamboat travel on the Ohio and Mississippi Rivers took place during the New Madrid earthquakes. The New Orleans set out from Pittsburgh on October 20, 1811 bound for New Orleans. Captain Nicholas Roosevelt had brought along his young wife, their 2 year old daughter, and a Labrador dog. Ten days after leaving Pittsburgh, his wife Lydia gave birth to a son in Louisville, Kentucky. They waited a while for her to recover, and for the water to rise prior to crossing the dangerous waters and coral reef at the Falls of the Ohio. On the night before the day of the earthquake, December 16th, the steamboat was anchored near Owensboro, Kentucky, about 200 miles east of New Madrid, Missouri. Their dog, Tiger, insisted on staying in the cabin with them instead of sleeping on the deck. Without realizing it, they were heading straight towards the epicenter of the greatest earthquake in American history. Their steamboat, intended to be an advertisement for steam travel, was thought instead to be the cause of the earthquake by many who saw it. At Henderson, Kentucky, where no chimneys were left standing, they stopped to visit their friends, the painter John James Audubon and his wife Lucy. Floating in the middle of the Ohio River they were protected from the earthquake tremors shaking the land, but not from the hazards of falling trees, disappearing islands, and collapsing river banks. After entering Indian Territory on December 18th, they were chased by Indians who figured the “fire canoe” had caused the earthquake, but they managed to escape capture by outrunning them. They even had a small cabin fire that night which they managed to put out. Thousands of trees were floating on the waters of the Mississippi as they approached New Madrid on December 19th, three days after the earthquake. They found that the town of New Madrid had been destroyed. They didn’t dare to stop and pick up a few survivors, for fear of being overrun, and they were without supplies. Most alarming was the fact that they had not seen a boat ascending the river in three days. They saw wrecked and abandoned boats. It was undoubtedly a miracle that they survived and kept on going. They tied up at one island, and the island sank during the night. Their dog, Tiger, alerted them to oncoming tremors. On December 22nd, they encountered the British naturalist John Bradbury on a boat at the mouth of the St. Francis River, who told them the town of Big Prairie was gone. They arrived at Natchez, Mississippi on December 30th and celebrated the first marriage aboard a steamboat on December 31st, when the steamboat engineer married Lydia’s maid! They arrived at New Orleans on January 10th, 1812, safe and sound, after traveling 1,900 miles from Pittsburgh on the first steamboat to travel the western waters.

Highly Recommended Reading
The source of most of this material is from The Earthquake America Forgot: 2,000 Temblors in Five Months…And It Will Happen Again! by Dr. David Stewart and Dr. Ray Knox. (1995, Gutenberg-Richter Publications, 375 pages). The authors are geoscientists, specializing in earthquakes. The book is one of the most fascinating I have ever read; it is factual and entertaining, and crammed with every imaginable bit of relevant information, great stories, photos, maps and illustrations. Call the publishers at 1-800-758-8629 to order this and The New Madrid Fault Finders Guide by the authors.

Posted by Kira Gale on 04/28/2008 at 09:01 PM

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Wednesday, March 05, 2008

Sacagawea’s Children in St Louis

In my previous blog, “What happened to Sacagawea’s children?” I said I would tell more of the story concerning the lives of Pompey and Lisette after they were adopted by William Clark in 1813. In this blog I will tell about their lives in St. Louis. Little Pompey (born February 11, 1805 at Fort Mandan) had been living in St Louis since 1809, staying with his parents on a farm in Florissant, Missouri (today a suburb of St. Louis). He was baptized at the St Louis Cathedral on December 28, 1809; with Auguste Chouteau, the most prominent citizen of St. Louis, serving as his godfather.

Sacagawea and Toussaint Charbonneau returned to the Dakotas in 1811, traveling with Manuel Lisa’s expedition to Fort Manuel, located near the South Dakota-North border in today’s Kenel, SD. They left 6 year old Pompey (Jean-Baptiste) in the custody of William Clark who had promised to raise and educate him when he was old enough to leave his mother’s care.

In 1812, after the second war against Great Britain and its Indian allies began, Sacagawea gave birth to a baby girl, Lisette, at Fort Manuel. Tragically, the young mother died there, on December 20, 1812 of “putrid fever.” She was about 25 years old. A few weeks after her death, the fort was attacked by Indian allies of the British, and fifteen of the Missouri Fur Company men were killed. The remaining men retreated down river to St. Louis, stopping long enough to build Fort Lisa, north of today’s Omaha, Nebraska.

On August 11, 1813 the Orphan Court records of St. Louis show that John Luttig was appointed the guardian of Jean Baptiste and Lisette Charbonneau. Luttig, the company clerk of the Missouri Fur Company, was substituting for an absent William Clark, whose name later replaced Luttig’s on the document. At the time it was thought that their father, Toussaint Charbonneau, was also deceased, but this proved not to be true.

Two more records found

Bob Moore, the historian of the Jefferson National Memorial Expansion Arch at St. Louis, has discovered two more important records at the St. Louis Old Cathedral. He reported the discovery in a letter to We Proceeded On, the magazine of the Trail Heritage Foundation, in the issue published in February, 2005, on the 200th anniversary of Jean-Baptiste’s birth.

The first is a burial record from 1813: “The 30th of August 1813 by us assigned to hold burial in the cemetery of the parish of St Louis the body of a young female savage of the nation of serpents [Snakes/Shoshone] belonging to Mr. Charbonneau aged one year.”

The second is a burial record from 1832 for “Lisette, Sauvagess.” It reads “The year of J. C. [Jesus Christ] 1832 and the 16th of June I gave ecclesiastic burial to Lisette, female savage of the nation of snakes, aged twenty one years, administered the sacraments decided yesterday.”

The two records, taken together, make it seem very likely that the “other” Shoshone wife of Toussaint Charbonneau, Otter Woman, accompanied Sacagawea’s little baby, Lisette, down river to St Louis, and that she was also nursing a baby girl of her own. Otter Woman was a friend of Sacagawea’s. It was Otter Woman’s daughter, aged one year, who must have died in August, 1813. The early death of Lisette at age 21 explains why we know so little about her.

I like to think that Otter Woman remained in St Louis and took care of Lisette and was a second mother to Jean-Baptiste. Again, it seems very likely. Jean-Baptiste grew up to be a very distinguished and unique individual who retained his Indian heritage despite his education and his years of living among the European aristocracy. If he had been raised almost solely by whites, it is doubtful, he would have had such a secure Indian identity.

There was a third child from the Lewis and Clark Expedition who was living in St. Louis, Toussaint Jessaume. The Jessaume family was living in St. Louis with the Mandan Chief Sheheke and his family in 1807-09. They had all traveled together to the east coast and met President Jefferson in January, 1807 and were waiting for a safe passage back home. When the Jessaumes, Charbonneaus, and Sheheke and his family returned to the Mandan-Hidatsa villages in 1809, the 13 year old Toussaint chose to stay behind in St. Louis. On May 10, 1809 Meriwether Lewis signed apprentice papers for him, and took him into his own home, promising to raise and educate him at his own expense. It is not known what happened to Toussaint Jessaume after Lewis’s death on October 11, 1809. Perhaps his brother Reuben took him into his home.

In 1818, Bishop DuBourg opened the St. Louis Academy, and Jean-Baptiste and the Clark boys attended school there. The academy evolved into St. Louis University, which is proud to claim Jean-Baptiste Charbonneau as an alumni. Mother Phillippine Duchesne established a school at St Charles for girls and boys, the first free school west of the Mississippi River. Did Lisette attend this school, or the one in Florissant, where Mother Duchesne opened another school for Indian children? A search is being made of the records, and I will let you know the outcome in my next blog.

The Clarks had five young children, and Julia Clark who had been ill for some time with breast cancer, died on June 20, 1820. She and their children had often traveled to stay with Clark’s family in Louisville, Kentucky and her family in Fincastle, Virginia during her illness. It seems likely that Pompey and Lisette were living with Otter Woman. Pompey must have attended one of the small schools in the area, or been privately tutored when he was young. Pompey entered the fur trade, working for the Chouteaus, sometime between 1821-23. I will blog about that next, as his life was extremely interesting.


The best book about Sacagawea and Pomp is by Susan M. Colby, a Charbonneau descendant and anthropologist. It is called Sacagawea’s Child: The Life and Times of Jean-Baptiste (Pomp) Chabonneau (Arthur H. Clark Co., 2005). It is a featured book on my bookstore website, and costs $28.50. Here is a link to Amazon.

Posted by Kira Gale on 03/05/2008 at 02:42 PM

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Monday, January 28, 2008

What happened to Sacagawea’s children?

“The court appoints William Clark Guardian to the infant children of Toussaint Charbonneau deceased, to wit, Toussaint Charbonneau a boy about the age of ten years old and Lisette Charbonneau a girl about one year old.” --Orphans Court record, St Louis, August 11, 1813

The earliest probate court records of St. Louis were discovered in an old safe at the courthouse last fall, containing guardianship proceedings regarding Sacagawea’s children.The story made the Fox News broadcast in St Louis on January 21, 2008. The record, shown here, is of an Orphans Court hearing held on August 11, 1813. William Clark’s name is added to the document, substituted for the name of the original guardian, John Luttig, who was the company clerk of the Missouri Fur Company.

What’s the story behind this? Lewis and Clark fans know that Toussaint, also known by his nickname “Pompey,” or as Jean Baptiste Charbonneau, was born on February 11, 1805 at Fort Mandan near Bismarck, North Dakota. This would make him 8 ½ years old. However, William Clark was not in St Louis at the time the hearing was held. He would have known the precise age of his adopted son, who was already living in St Louis and attending a boarding school.The father, Toussaint Charbonneau, Sr. was also not “deceased” though he was believed to be so at the time. He lived until about 1840.

Toussaint and Sacagawea and their son Pompey came to St. Louis in 1809 with Manuel Lisa and Pierre Chouteau, who had successfully delivered the Mandan Chief, Sheheke, or Big White, back to his village in North Dakota where the Charbonneau family was living. William Clark had requested they bring Pompey to St Louis where he would provide for his education when he was old enough to go to school. The Charbonneau family lived in Florissant, the town next to St Charles, for a year or more before returning home. They went back up river with Manuel Lisa in 1811, leaving their six year old son in William’s Clark’s care.

Sacagawea’s Death at Fort Manuel in 1812

Sacagawea died on Fort Manuel in Kenel, South Dakota on December 20, 1812. The Orphan Court record confirms that it was Sacagawea, rather than Charbonneau’s other Shoshone wife, who died at Fort Manuel. John Luttig wrote in his journal on Sunday, December 20, 1812: "this evening the wife of Charbonneau a Snake Squar, died of a putrid fever, she was a good and the best Women in the fort, aged abt 25 years she left a fine infant girl."

The little baby girl, Lisette, and an Indian woman to care for her, must have been brought down to St Louis by Lisa’s men as they retreated back to St Louis after Fort Manuel was attacked by Indians allies of the British during the War of 1812.The attack occurred sometime after March 5, 1813, the last date of entry in Luttig’s Journal. According to Richard Oglesby’s biography of Manuel Lisa, fifteen men of the Missouri Fur Company died in the attack. Was Lisette named for Manuel Lisa? It’s a possibility.

Luttig’s Journal of a Fur Trading Expedition 1812-13 is very interesting to read. The 1920 version is available on the internet. Here’s the link:

http://www.xmission.com/~drudy/mtman/html/Luttig/

The Missouri Fur Company expedition retreated down river to St Louis, stopping to build Fort Lisa near the site of Council Bluffs, where Fort Atkinson was later built, north of Omaha, Nebraska. Fort Lisa became the westernmost fort defending the American frontier during the War of 1812. Lisa returned and made his headquarters there in 1814, appointed as a special Indian Agent by William Clark.

I published a booklet, Defending the Western Frontier: Manuel Lisa and the War of 1812 in the Omaha-Council Bluffs Area, based on a paper I gave at the Missouri Valley History Conference in 1999. I will blog at other times about the children, and also about the War of 1812 out west.

Posted by Kira Gale on 01/28/2008 at 04:51 PM

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Friday, January 25, 2008

Aaron Burr, Meriwether Lewis and the Burr-Wilkinson Conspiracy, Part 1

Meriwether Lewis, 1807Aaron Burr and Meriwether Lewis crossed paths several times during Lewis’s all too short life. One of Lewis’s last assignments from Jefferson was to root out suspected “Burrites” from political office in St  Louis, while Lewis was serving as Governor of Upper Louisiana Territory in 1807-09. Lewis died in 1809 on the Natchez Trace, traveling to Washington, D. C. to protest some bills that weren’t being paid by government bureaucrats, and perhaps bringing some incriminating evidence regarding the Burr-Wilkinson Conspiracy to Washington. Some believe he was murdered.

Burr and Lewis had worked together during the first administration of President Thomas Jefferson (1801-1804), when Burr was Vice President of the United States and Lewis was serving as Jefferson’s private secretary. Lewis lived at the White House almost from Jefferson’s first month in office until he left on July 5, 1803 to lead the elite special army unit known as the “Corps of Volunteers for Northwestern Discovery” whose mission was to explore the new Louisiana Purchase and to seek an all water route to the Pacific Ocean.

On July 11, 1804, the young army captain was traveling up the Missouri River near today’s Kansas-Nebraska border when Aaron Burr killed Alexander Hamilton in the famous duel. It was over two years before Lewis and the other expedition members heard about it. They got their first news on September 3, 1806 when they were returning home and met trader James Aird near today’s Sioux City, Iowa.

William Clark wrote they learned “that Mr. Burr and Genl. Hambleton fought a Duel, the latter was killed &c &c.” Alexander Hamilton had been the first Treasurer of the United States (1789-1795) under President George Washington.

Other news was that Aird “informed us that Genl. Wilkinson was the governor of the Louisiana at St Louis 300 of the American Troops had been Contuned on the Missouri a fiew miles above it’s mouth. Some disturbance with the Spaniards in the Nackatosh Country is the Cause of their being Called down to that Country…” (pages 346-347, The Definitive Journals of Lewis and Clark: Over the Rockies to St Louis )

The Burr-Wilkinson Conspiracy

Aaron BurrWell, what was Burr “up to” while our guys were returning home? And what was the Burr-Wilkinson Conspiracy that was going to consume so much of Lewis’s time and attention in the years ahead? Who was Wilkinson?

General James Wilkinson was a slick operator—widely accused at the time of being in the pay of Spain. (This was later proven when files from the Spanish archives were opened. He was on the payroll of Spain from 1787 onward.) He was also the Commanding General of the United States Army and the first Governor of Upper Louisiana Territory. He was a useful double agent for President Jefferson, who was rightfully concerned with control of New Orleans and the Mississippi River. But absolutely nobody trusted him, except—perhaps—Aaron Burr.

After the duel with Hamilton, Burr’s political career was effectively ended. The Burr-Wilkinson Conspiracy was a plot hatched by the two men to invade Spanish territory with a “filibustering” expedition. They planned to lead a private, armed expedition of 1,000-1,500 men into Mexico and establish a new government there, with themselves at the head of it. The invasion would launch from New Orleans, and it would take place whenever the United States went to war with Spain. They plotted together in 1804-05, and received widespread support from Americans eager to end Spanish rule. It was the talk of the country and rumors were widely reported in the newspapers.

Other versions of the story are that Burr planned to establish a colony of young men on land along the Washita River called the Bastrop Lands, near today’s Austin,Texas. In addition, a separation of the western states from the American Union, the conquest of New Orleans, and support from the British Navy were all part of the rumored plans.

On September 23, 1806, when the Lewis and Clark Expedition returned to St Louis they received a heroes’ welcome. But over the next few months, the big national news story was the filibustering expedition led by Aaron Burr.

Blennerhassett Island

Harman BlennerhassettThe expedition was to start from Blennerhassett Island on the Ohio River near Parkersburg, West Virginia,where boats, supplies and men were being assembled. The island was the private estate of a wealthy and eccentric Irish aristocrat, Harman Blennerhassett, who was bankrolling the adventure. On November 27, 1806 President Jefferson ordered the arrest of Burr and his followers on the charge of illegally planning an armed attack on Spanish territory. Two weeks later, on December 11th, Blennerhassett and about 30 members of the filibuster fled from local militia, who burned Blennerhassett’s mansion on the island to the ground. The group traveled down the Ohio, where, on December 27th, they met up with Aaron Burr at the mouth of the Cumberland River in Kentucky. Altogether, the expedition now numbered around 60-100 men. The original plan was that the group would be gradually be joined by more and more men as it proceeded down river, but this didn’t happen.

Neutral Ground on the Sabine River

General James Wilkinson What about the war with Spain that was supposed to launch the filibuster? General Wilkinson had been removed from political office as the Governor of Upper Louisiana at St Louis in June of 1806 by Jefferson, and sent down with troops to the Sabine River area between Nacogdoches Texas and Natchitoches, Louisiana. (Look at a modern day map: the Sabine River forms the wavy line boundary directly below the straight line boundary of Texas and Louisiana.)

During October and November, 1806, General Wilkinson managed a peaceful stand off with Mexican troops who had crossed the Sabine River invading U.S. territory. On his own authority, he signed an agreement on November 5, 1806 with the Mexican army commander which secured a 120 mile wide “neutral zone” between Nacogdoches and Natchitoches that extended all the way down to the Gulf waters. This area remained a lawless Neutral Ground from 1806 until 1821, and a border war with Spain was averted.

Burr Arrested

Where did this leave Aaron Burr? Wilkinson had already betrayed him on October 9th, writing a hysterical letter to President Jefferson revealing the conspiracy, and enclosed a letter in cipher code from Burr as evidence.When Burr and his followers arrived at Bayou Pierre, 30 miles north of New Orleans, they learned of Jefferson’s order for their arrest, and they turned themselves in on January 10, 1810.

To be continued…

Posted by Kira Gale on 01/25/2008 at 06:53 PM

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Thursday, January 17, 2008

Book TV provides insight into Aaron Burr’s character

American Creation by Joseph EllisLast weekend I heard a conversation on Book TV between two of my favorite historians, Joseph Ellis and Richard Brookhiser, who were talking about Ellis’s latest book, American Creation: Triumphs and Tragedies at the Founding of the Republic. This is the first time I can ever remember hearing a conversation on C-SPAN, and I hope we have more opportunities like this one. I like all the formats on Book TV: the author talks followed by questions from the audience; the in-depth interviews; and the panel discussions, but I have always wanted to hear experts talk directly with one another, like the sports guys do on the sports channel that my husband listens to.

The New York Historical Society hosted the original one hour program, which can be heard over the internet.  Here is a direct link to the page with the  video broadcast on booktv.org. I enjoyed hearing it for a second time. It was insightful and fun and gave me many things to think about. My favorite insight came from Richard Brookhiser; it was regarding the "charm" of Aaron Burr. Like all students of this time period, I am puzzled as to what to make of Aaron Burr--"What was he up to?" is the perpetual question, then and now, regarding his filibustering expedition to the southwest in 1806 (which is known as the "Burr-Wilkinson Conspiracy.") 

Brookhiser said that an old book on Aaron Burr written around 1910 contained information from people who actually had known Burr, and revealed why he was such an enigmatic charmer. They reported that Aaron Burr was a "great listener." He listened with full attention to people. That’s why people didn’t know what he was "up to"--they were too busy talking about their own ideas to care!  So what was he up to? Most of the 60-100 members of the filibustering expedition thought they were going to invade Spanish territory in the winter months of 1806-07. The question remains, did Burr intend to create a new country, with himself as the head of a new empire? I think so. I will write more about Burr and Meriwether Lewis in my next blog.

Posted by Kira Gale on 01/17/2008 at 02:59 PM

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Sunday, January 06, 2008

Lewis and Clark for libraries; Boy Scout, Girl Scout and 4-H leaders

Lewis and Clark Road Trips: Exploring the Trail  Across America by Kira Gale"Reference books just do not get any better than this one. It should be on every library shelf in every nook and cranny of America, but especially in Nebraska. It should be in the personal library of every Boy Scout, Girl Scout, and 4-H leader. It should interest the many thousands of Lewis and Clark afficionados.  The only lament is that this excellent guide was not published until 2006--we could have used it five years earlier. Still, do not miss it."---John R. Wunder, professor of history at University of Nebraska. Dr. Wunder gave a rave review to Lewis and Clark Road Trips: Exploring the Trail Across America by author Kira Gale  in the fall 2007 issue of Nebraska History.

Here are some more excerpts from the review: "Many high (and low) quality publications were produced during the Lewis and Clark Expedition commemoration of 2003-2006.  The event kept potential authors and publishers working overtime. In some ways the public is exhausted by this celebration, unlike any previous including the U. S. Bicentennial. Nevertheless, this book--a Lewis and Clark geographical almanac--is an outstanding reference work, truly welcome to the literature. This amazing travel-guide-plus includes 161 outstanding maps with clear driving directions, 573 Lewis and Clark historic campsites, and more than 800 destinations. Divided into ten regions, the guide begins with the homelands of Meriwether Lewis and William Clark east of the Alleghenies and the Ohio Country and concudes at the spot where Lewis breathed his last along the Natchez Trace.  In between, the book provides much information from St. Louis to Astoria."

The author’s response--I also wished this book could have been published in 2003!  But that is why I spent six years writing it from 2001-2006. I saw a need for good maps and tourist itineraries. I also learned a lot of history and geography  by traveling, reading, and searching websites. I have always wanted to understand more about American history in terms of place, and I had the experience of a lifetime in traveling the trail. I am glad to share it with others and this story will continue to grow.  In 2008 we will have forums on the lewisandclarkroadtrips.com website, and others will be able to participate in shaping the story of the trail. (January, 2008)

Posted by Kira Gale on 01/06/2008 at 10:57 AM

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Saturday, January 05, 2008

Lewis and Clark Mystery Map at NAVTEQ MAPS Exhibit

NAVTEQ, the giant mapping company which was just acquired by NOKIA, is sponsoring a phenomenal exhibit of maps, called "Finding Our Place in the World." The exhibit  of over 130 maps from all over the world, and from all time periods, was organized by The Field Museum and The Newberry Library in Chicago. It will leave The Field Museum on January 27 to travel to only one other place, The Walters Gallery in Baltimore, Maryland where it will be on exhibit from March 16 - June 8, 2008. The maps are so rare, and so spectacular, that the wonder is that they were ever loaned out from their host institutions. This is one of the great exhibits, and is worth a trip from anywhere in the world if you love maps. The Field Museum has an online virtual tour of the exhibit, and Rachel Rubin has a nice online article with photos.

The mystery map is a Lewis and Clark map by George Shannon, dated 1811, that is very similar to the map shown here by William Clark. The Shannon map comes from a private collection, and is unknown to Lewis and Clark experts. I contacted Dr. Gary Moulton, the editor of the modern Lewis and Clark Journals and the Atlas of the Lewis and Clark Expedition. He has never heard of the map, and told me that the original map by William Clark was drawn in 1810, and is part of Yale University’s Beinecke Library.  Dr. Ray Woods, another Lewis and Clark expert, has also never heard of the map. If anyone has any information to share, please contact me at kira@lewisandclarktravel.com

If you want a closer look at the Clark map, here is a link to a zoomable view  of the map at the University of Virginia Library. The William Clark map was copied by Samuel Lewis and published as part of the Biddle edition of the Lewis and Clark Journals in 1814. The map is also part of Google Earth’s historic map collection, which I blogged about earlier. The 1814 map can be superimposed over the landscape of Google Earth and each of its modern day locations determined, which is quite fascinating .

After Meriwether Lewis’s mysterious death in 1809 on the Natchez Trace, William Clark took over the management of getting the journals ready for publication. He recruited Nicholas Biddle of Philadelphia and asked George Shannon, a member of the expedition, to help him. It is a reasonable guess that Shannon made a copy of Clark’s 1810 map to help Biddle in preparing the manuscript. What is funny about a map made by Shannon is that he is most well known for getting lost!  Shannon, at age 19, was the youngest member of the expedition, and was lost several times during the journey. A Shannon Trail in northeastern Nebraska is one of the best Lewis and Clark tourist adventures along the entire trail.  Biddle later became president of the Second Bank of the United States, and Shannon became a U. S. Senator from Missouri. (January, 2008)

Posted by Kira Gale on 01/05/2008 at 11:49 AM

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Saturday, August 25, 2007

Jefferson at Home: Personal Reminiscences

I got two books at the Monticello gift shop while I was there:  Jefferson at Monticello: Recollections of a Monticello Slave and of a Monticello Overseer, edited by James A. Bear, Jr. and The Wolf by the Ears: Thomas Jefferson and Slavery by John Chester Miller.You can buy the book by James Bear through the Monticello gift shop. It is an older book, published by the University of Virginia Press in 1967. The Wolf by the Ears is available through a link from my Amazon Affiliate bookstore and at the Monticello store (call 434-984-9840).

Jefferson wrote about slavery, “but as it is, we have the wolf by the ear, and we neither hold him, nor safely let him go, justice is in one scale, and self preservation in the other.”  There is a new “Wiki” site for Jefferson scholarship on the main Monticello website. This is a Wiki site where only scholars invited by Monticello are allowed to submit entries, but the public may post comments. There are many entries for both “Sally Hemmings and Thomas Jefferson” and for “Slavery” if you want to pursue these matters in further depth.

Memoirs of a Monticello Slave, as dictated to Charles Campbell by Isaac was recorded in 1847 in Petersburg, Virginia where Isaac was living in retirement and working as a blacksmith. The other memoir is The Private Life of Thomas Jefferson by Rev. Hamilton Wilcox Pierson, who interviewed Edmund Bacon, who was Jefferson’s overseer at Monticello for 20 years. This book was first published in 1862. Together, the two accounts are the primary source of information about Jefferson’s private life. Each man was 65 years old when their recollections were recorded.

Issac described Jefferson in this way:  “Mr Jefferson was a tall, straight-bodied man as ever you see, right square-shouldered. Nary man in this town walked so straight as my Old Master.”

“He kept three fiddles; played in the arternoons and sometimes arter supper....Mr. Jefferson always singing when ridin’ or walkin’; hardly see him anywar outdoors but what he was a singin.’ Had a fine clear voice; sung minnits (minuets) and sich; fiddled in the parlor. Old Master was very kind to servants.”

“Old Master had an abundance of books; sometimes would have twenty of ‘em down on the floor at once—read fust one, then tother.” 

Issac was trained as a tinsmith and ran one of the few money making enterprises at Monticello, a small nail factory. Monticello-made nails were used to build the nearby homes of James Monroe and James Madison. Jefferson liked to do this kind of work also. “My Old Master was as neat a hand as ever you see to make keys and locks and small chains, iron and brass. He kept all kind of blacksmith and carpenter tools in a great case with shelves to it in his library, an upstairs room.”

“For amusement he would work sometimes in the garden for half an hour at a time in right good earnest in the cool of the evening.”

Captain Bacon, the overseer, describes Jefferson as “6 feet two and a half inches, well proportioned and straight as a gun barrel. He was like a fine horse; he had no surplus flesh. He had an iron constitution and was very strong....He had blue eyes. His countenance was always mild and pleasant. You never saw it ruffled. No odds what happened, it always maintained the same expression.”

“Mr. Jefferson was always an early riser—arose at daybreak or before.” He rode his horse daily unless the weather was very bad. “He was an uncommonly fine rider—sat easily upon his horse and always had him in the most perfect control.”

“Mr. Jefferson was very liberal and kind to the poor.” When Jefferson returned to Monticello from Washington, crowds would come to Monticello to beg from him. He would send them with notes to Captain Bacon, who knew them better than Jefferson, and wouldn’t give them anything if he knew they didn’t deserve it.

“Mr. Jefferson was the most industrious man I ever saw in my life.” As overseer, Bacon was in and out of his room at all times of day or night, and never saw him unoccupied.

“He was very fond of fruits and vegetables and raised every variety of them.”

Jefferson loved his grandchildren, who followed him around as he walked on the grounds and in the garden. As many as 8 or 9 of them lived at Monticello, which is really not a big house. He told them often they should learn useful employment. On Saturdays, the grandchildren would cut wood for the nail factory, earning 50 cents for a cord of wood.

There are many anecdotes in this fine little book that gave me a sense of what life must have like at Monticello. I now understand why Jefferson gave his occupation as “farmer” and believed that yeoman farmers would settle the west. Jefferson’s design for Monticello reflects a deep awareness of life as an integrated whole. I like to imagine him walking around the grounds of Monticello, followed by grandchildren, singing minuets as he walked, and noting every little detail of what was happening with an unruffled expression!

Posted by Kira Gale on 08/25/2007 at 05:26 PM

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Thomas Jefferson’s Monticello: the Ultimate House and Garden Experience

When I am relaxing at the end of a day of working on Lewis and Clark matters, I often watch House and Garden TV, so you can imagine how thrilled I was to visit Monticello! There is an undeniable “rightness” to the place, if you accept the fact that slave labor was integral to its creation and maintenance. It is a fascinating place to visit. I will write more about the daily life of Monticello in my next blog.

Jefferson spent 40 years working on improvements at Monticello. It deserves its status as the only American house on the World Heritage List. Jefferson’s other architectural and conceptual masterpiece, the University of Virginia, is also on the list.  Both places are located in Charlottesville, Virginia on the eastern edge of the Blue Ridge Mountains.

I learned on this visit to Charlottesville that the Blue Ridge Mountains are part of “Old Africa.” The mountains are the remains of the old super continent before part of it split away and became Africa. They are beautiful mountains, and they are “blue.” Someday I hope to travel the Blue Ridge Parkway in a major way. 

I spent four consecutive days visiting Monticello while attending the Lewis and Clark Trail Heritage Foundation annual meeting in early August, 2007. I was determined to get a chance to experience it, however briefly, in its entirety. On Friday, before the meeting, I toured the house on a public tour led by my friend Liz Tidwell, a Monticello tour guide, whom I had met at a previous Lewis and Trail Heritage Foundation meeting in St Louis. Liz afterwards gave me a private orientation tour of the grounds and outer buildings. The next day, on Saturday, I rented a car and returned in 100 degree heat to videotape the outer buildings and grounds. On Sunday morning, which was much cooler, I visited the gardens and gravesite with Claudia Crump, a teacher from New Albany, Indiana. On Monday, the members of the Trail Heritage Foundation had a private tour of the house and a reception on the lawn of Monticello. How lucky can you get? It was a once in a lifetime experience. Fortunately there are several books which I have ordered. I will review and blog about them in a later post and write about some I bought at the Monticello gift shop in the next post, “Jefferson at Home: Personal Reminscences.”

Jefferson was brilliant, and his home and Monticello reveal how sensibly and carefully he looked after the well being of all of its residents and the grounds of his estate. For a man who valued his family, books and learning, the finest of food and wine at his table, architecture and gardening, this was where his heart and soul were located. If you want to understand Jefferson, you have to visit Monticello. The Monticello Foundation does not allow photographs to be taken inside the house, so these photos are only taken outside. I will be working on my Monticello video as my first video offering on the Lewis and Clark Road Trips Photo and Video Trail Gallery, which launches in October, 2007.

Tour group viewing Monticello from the top of Montalto Mountain. The Foundation recently bought Montalto to save it from real estate development. A lovely old stone house on the property will become an educational center.

My friend Liz Tidwell, a Monticello tour guide, and a member of the Lewis and Clark Trail Heritage Foundation.

Jefferson’s porch, right outside of his study. His famous desk, with the revolving book holder, and the copying machine for copying his letters, and his telescope may be seen through the windows. The guided tour of the house takes you through this room and others on the ground floor.

The garden stretches for the length of 3 football fields, an 80 by 1,000 foot terrace, on the side of the mountain. Orchards and vineyards were placed below and to the west end of the terrace. The entire garden area was enclosed by a ten foot high fence.The gardens were to needed to feed both Jefferson’s family and his numerous visitors and guests.

The observatory was a favorite place for Jefferson to sit and read.

The outer buildings under the walkways extending from the house were work rooms, including the kitchen, smokehouse, stables, dairy, storage cellars, ice house and some slave quarters. The two walkways flanking the house enclose the flower gardens and lawn and lead to pavilion buildings at each end. Jefferson and his bride, Martha lived for the first years of their marriage in the South Pavilion, a 20 foot square building while Monticello was under construction. They lived in one room on the terrace level with a kitchen located on the ground level. Monticello was under construction in some form or another for almost forty years, from 1770 until Jefferson retired from the presidency of the United States in 1809.


Posted by Kira Gale on 08/25/2007 at 11:45 AM

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Sunday, July 22, 2007

Meriwether Lewis’s Fateful Encounter with the Blackfeet: Was It a Set-Up?

Wolf Calf, Blackfoot participant in the Two-Medicine Encounter, age 102, by George Bird Grinnell Meriwether Lewis’s encounter with the Blackfeet at Two Medicine River on today’s Blackfeet Reservation near Browning, Montana was the start of the war between the Blackfeet and Americans which lasted for more than two decades. Why do I think that Lewis "set up," or provoked, a fight with the Blackfeet in 1806? Well, simply put, it’s because he fell into a "profound sleep" while he and his three companions spent the night with eight young Piegan horse thieves whom they encountered at the Two-Medicine River area near today’s Glacier National Park. The teenagers were just returning from a successful raid on Crow Indian horses with 30 horses. The next morning (July 27, 1806) the boys stole the guns of all four men while Reuben Field was on guard duty and the other three were sleeping. During the ensuing uproar, the guns were recovered, and Reuben killed one of the robbers. Then the boys attempted to make off with the men’s horses, and Meriwether Lewis killed another young thief.

I am extremely skeptical of the idea that four experienced Indian fighters could not have prevented this from happening, if they had wished to avoid trouble.  This was geo-politics. The Blackfeet controlled the area with the help of British supplied arms and ammunition. The Lewis and Clark Expedition represented the first American presence in the area, and they had promised to supply arms and ammunition to the Blackfeet’s traditional enemies, the Shoshone, Flatheads and Kutenai, and to establish a trading post in Blackfeet territory east of the Rocky Mountains. I think it is plausible that Meriwether Lewis allowed an incident to happen, as the start of the armed struggle for control of the Pacific Northwest and Rocky Mountain area between the United States and Britain. 

Lewis wrote several entries in his journal about how worried he was about meeting up with the Blackfeet when he went north to explore how far the Marias River extended. The purpose of his dangerous journey with three of the best and toughest members of the Corps of Discovery was to find out if whether the United States could claim more land, based on the northern extent of the tributaries of the Missouri River. If instead of following the Marias River and its branches, they had chosen instead to follow the Milk River, the present day boundary line between the United States and Canada might well extend about 15 miles further north to the area of Writing-in-the-Stone Provincial Park and the town of Milk River in Alberta, Canada. 

When Lewis first sighted the Indians and horses, he wrote in his journal on July 26, 1806: "I counted eight of them…I told the two men with me…I was convinced they would rob us in which case be their numbers what they would I should resist to the last extremity, preferring death to that of being deprived of my papers instruments and gun and desired that they would form the same resolution and be alert and on their guard." After the initial meeting with the Piegan he wrote: "I believe they were more alarmed at this accidental interview than we were…I now concluded they were only eight in number and became much better satisfyed with our situation as I was convinced that we could manage that number should they attempt any hostile measures. As it was growing late in the evening I proposed that we should remove to the nearest part of the river and encamp together. I told them that I was glad to see them and had a great deel to say to them….I told these people…that I had been to the great waters where the sun sets and seen a great many nations all of whom I had invited to come and trade with me on the rivers on this side of the mountains."

The Blackfeet had lived in this area for at least 3,000-5,000 years and were considered the most aggressive and warlike tribe in the Northwest. Since acquiring guns and ammunition from British traders on the Saskatchewan River in the 1750’s, they controlled the buffalo plains from the Saskatchewan River to the Yellowstone River in Montana. They terrorized the Shoshone, Flatheads and Kutenai, who had no guns. The western tribes risked their lives when they ventured out of the mountains in pursuit of buffalo. The Piegans were the southernmost of the three tribes of the Blackfeet Nation, with an estimated 700 warriors in 1809.  When Lewis and Clark encountered the Shoshone in the Rocky Mountains in the famous episode where Sacagawea realizes the chief is her brother, the Shoshone were starving and waiting to join up with the Flathead and other Shoshone bands before coming down from the mountains to hunt buffalo. Lewis and Clark promise to supply all these tribes with guns and ammunition, including the Nez Perce in Idaho. The buffalo were so numerous on the plains that on July 18th, Lewis comments they rode for twelve miles surrounded by buffalo herds (probably a quarter million buffalo). They estimated they saw 10,000 or 20,000 in one view at other times. 

I gave a talk at the White Catfish Festival at Western Historic Trails Center in Council Bluffs, Iowa yesterday (7/21/07). Our weekly Lewis and Clark Study Group meets at the Trails Center, so many of the talks at the Lewis and Clark annual event were given by us. Study group asked me to talk about my idea that Meriwether Lewis intended to have a fight with the Blackfeet. Well, I had always wanted to research this more closely so I accepted the challenge.  I had Lewis’s journal account, but I needed to learn more about the Blackfeet. I found John C. Ewers classic 1958 book, The Blackfeet: Raiders on the Northwestern Plains, on ABE the used book site; and called the Blackfeet Heritage Center at Browning, Montana and got a DVD, Two Worlds at Two-Medicine: the Blackfeet Meet Meriwether Lewis (2004). The Historical Society of Montana provided an1833 Alexander Culbertson reference to the encounter from a 1917 society publication.  A fellow Lewis and Clark blogger, at Lewis and Clark Trail Watch, Kathleen Dahl, was just posting blogs on the internet on her visit to the Two Medicine and Fort Benton area; and she agreed to let me use some of her photos. I found the Trail Tribes website to be very helpful. I used a digital camera to copy some of Karl Bodmer’s illustrations from Travels in the Interior of North America during the years 1832-34 from Taschen, the German publisher, and put in some maps from my own Lewis and Clark Road Trips book. I showed excerpts from the DVD at the end of my talk; we all would have just settled down to watch the whole video if I started with it. It’s very good, and features Curly Bear Wagner the famous Blackfoot historian and tour guide, and other experts.  The Blackfeet accounts contribute the names of the two who died, Side-hill-calf and He-that looks-at-the-calf, and the fact that the eight Piegans were young teenagers. Wolf Calf, whose photo is shown above, was a 13 year old participant. He was photographed and interviewed by George Bird Grinnell in 1895 when he was 102 years old. 

The Blackfeet were out to kill American trappers from 1806 on. In 1807, Manuel Lisa and George Drouillard led the first expedition up the Missouri after Lewis and Clark’s return. John Colter and other men from the Corps of Discovery were part of the group. Colter was with a group of Flatheads when they were attacked by the Blackfeet, and he fought on the side of the Flatheads, reinforcing the Blackfeet’s distrust of Americans.  In 1808, Colter and John Potts, another former member of the Corps of Discovery, were caught by the Blackfeet in the Missouri headwaters area. Potts was killed, but Colter was stripped naked and allowed to run for his life while being pursued by the Blackfeet. In one of the great frontier adventure stories, he managed to escape being killed, and found his way back to the Missouri Fur Company fort on the Bighorn River.  In 1810, the Blackfeet killed twenty men of the Missouri Fur Company who were trapping in the headwaters area, including George Drouillard.  Fighting in Blackfeet territory continued, but now it was between Indian tribes, who were all being supplied with guns and ammunition. The Missouri Fur Company abandoned its fur posts from 1810 until 1821, when they tried to reopen the fort on the Yellowstone. The Blackfeet killed 6 trappers and made off with $15,000 worth of furs. Finally the American Fur Company succeeded in making peace, and establishing trade at Fort Union in 1828. 

All of these places are destinations in my Lewis and Clark Road Trips book. There are links to their websites and MapQuest maps on the website. The Blackfeet today have a thriving tourism business, entertaining and educating many visitors from Europe, who respect their long history and heritage and love the beautiful landscape of Glacier National Park. The Blackfeet have participated whole heartedly in the Lewis and Clark bicentennial, issuing special commemorative coins and leading tours to the encounter site. It is one of the great destination areas of Lewis and Clark Road Trips.

Posted by Kira Gale on 07/22/2007 at 03:42 PM

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Tuesday, July 10, 2007

Meriwether Lewis Events on the Divide and at Harper’s Ferry, July 7, 2007





A solitary runner at Lewis and Clark Pass near Great Falls, Montana  and a program at Harper’s Ferry, West Virginia commemorated the activities of Meriwether Lewis on July 7th in the years 1803 and 1806. I receive Google Alerts on various Lewis and Clark key words and Discovery Expedition of St Charles news articles links daily.  I try to stay on top of it, and review what’s happening.  This goes to show that Lewis and Clark are continuing to be established as a permanent feature of the American landscape. The blog is by Mose, and it is called Running On.

The blog is http://gmoseman.blogspot.com. Here is the link for  Green Mountain on the Divide, with pics.

Here is the link for Meriwether Lewis Returns to Harper Ferry, a news article by Jillian E. Kesner, in The Journal a newspaper published in Martinsburg, WV. (http://www.journal-news.net) The two day event at Harpers Ferry National Historical Park celebrates the establishment of a permanent Meriwether Lewis at Harpers Ferry Walking Trail. The park also has a permanent Meriwether Lewis exhibit and a replica of the famous iron boat that failed so disasterously at Great Falls in the summer of 1805. Another replica of the iron boat is found at the Upper Portage Camp Overlook in Great Falls.

We spent hours trying to understand the location of the Lewis and Clark Pass in the mountains west of Great Falls when we were putting together Lewis and Clark Road Trips. I also worried about grizzly bears on the Lewis and Clark Pass trail, and  wondered if I should be sending tourists on this route. I considered it the most dangerous destination in the book. But in the interest of historical accuracy, I included it as Destination # 39 in Region 8 on the Blackfoot River Corridor, Highway 200. I also said to bring water, travel in a group, and make noise.  Pretty easy to do for the average tourist.

Posted by Kira Gale on 07/10/2007 at 08:09 AM

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Friday, June 15, 2007

Poking Around the Mississippi: Buffalo Bill, Nathaniel Pryor and Ulysess S Grant

Mother and Baby Buffalo at Cody Homestead, McCausland, IowaGalena Lead Ore ExhibitUlysses S Grant Home in Galena, Illinois We had a splendid three day vacation "poking around" the Mississippi River valley after completing that big Lewis and Clark Road Trips mailing to over 700 destinations.  I have always wanted to visit the Buffalo Bill Cody attractions near the Iowa Quad Cities area (Davenport, Rock Island, Bettendorf and Moline) and Interstate 80, and to see the Ulysses S. Grant home in Galena, Illinois about 75 miles north on the other side of the river. For the first time we did a leisurely touring trip, averaging 300 miles a day. That’s a great way to travel, and my book is really set up along that principle.  The book has 79 "travel hubs" or facing pages of information about attractions with maps and driving directions. The fun of "poking around" is that you don’t have to get any place in particular. That’s a real vacation! On the other hand, if you like history and heritage tourism and the great outdoors, you can plan what you want to do. But having it all there in a compact form, gives you "options."  And we do supply phone numbers. And now that I have heard back from so many people, the second edition of the book will be up to date  with all the latest hours and prices and typos corrected. However, first we need to sell out the first edition.  And you can always consult our website trip planner and see if the destinations websites are up to date with the latest information. On the road, or while planning the trip, you can just call ahead and ask because their phones are in my book.

Buffalo Bill in Le Claire, Iowa

We wanted to do something other than Lewis and Clark, after seven years. We didn’t want a working vacation. But, guess what, I found buffalo and an almost 200 year old tavern/restaurant without any planning at all! The buffalo were at the Buffalo Bill Cody Homestead, 12 miles northwest of the Buffalo Bill Museum in Le Claire, Iowa. Le Claire is a tiny town on the Great River Road directly above the Quad Cities and just off I-80. The Buffalo Bill Museum doesn’t have many original Buffalo Bill items, but Le Claire is where he spent several years of his youth. He was born in 1846 on a homestead 12 miles northwest of Le Claire, and then they moved to town. The Cody homestead actually has a small herd of buffalo, including one baby and another on the way. The Cody house is a nice size stone house. Bill’s father Issac Cody was an abolitionist who moved to Leavenworth, Kansas in 1854 to be part of the fight against slavery. After being assaulted while giving a speech against slavery, he suffered from injuries that resulted in his death in 1857 and Bill began earning a living at age 11 to support his mother and sisters.

The old restaurant and tavern dates back to the 1830’s and is called "Sneaky Pete’s." It has a great view of the Mississippi River and is located next to the Buffalo Bill Museum on the riverfront. There are also nearby boat tours.

Nathaniel Pryor and Ulysses S. Grant in Galena, Illinois

Sergeant Nathaniel Pryor of the Corps of Discovery settled in Galena in 1811; where he opened a trading post for the Winnebago Indians and operated a lead smelting furnace. "Galena" is the scientific name for lead ore, and it was the center of the "Lead Mining District of Illinois Country." (The photo above shows a large chunk of lead ore, on exhibit at the U. S. Grant home.) William Clark, the Indian Agent for the Territory, asked him to supply information about Indian activities. The Winnebago attacked Pryor’s trading post on January 1st, 1812,  intending to kill him and his business partner, but they escaped during the burning down of the post. Pryor reenlisted in the army in 1813 and served under Andrew Jackson at the Battle of New Orleans.

Galena is a famous tourist town on the Mississippi, and the area is very beautiful, with great valleys and rolling hills.  The Ulysses S. Grant home sits on top of the highest hill. A statue of his wife, Julia, overlooks the view of the town below nestled in the hills. The town people gave the house to the Grants in 1865, at the end of the Civil War. Grant had been a clerk in his brother’s leather goods store in Galena at the beginning of the war in 1861. In less than three years, Abraham Lincoln appointed him Commanding General of the Union Armies.  In 1868 he became President of the United States, and served two terms. I doubt there is any more amazing rise to fame in American history than his life story.

For the armchair traveler I am including a photo of Grant’s favorite arm chair in his library study. All the furnishings in the house are original. He took the armchair to the White House.

Ulysses S. Grant's Favorite Arm Chair

Posted by Kira Gale on 06/15/2007 at 01:57 PM

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Monday, June 04, 2007

Lewis and Clark Road Trips at Offutt Air Force Base in Bellevue, Nebraska

Kira and  Consultant Andy Alexander at Offutt AFB BXOffutt Air Force Base Pet ShowCatfish Lake Restaurant, South of Offutt AFB


On Saturday, June 2, 2007 I signed books at the Base Exchange store at Offutt Air Force Base in Bellevue, Nebraska. In the photo above, I’m talking with consultant Andy Alexander, who is the manager of  PTAC (Procurement Technical Assistance Center) at Nebraska Business Development Center. Andy is a retired military officer and a native of the East St Louis area, where he helped build Lewis and Clark trails as a boy. Andy has helped me register to do business with the government, so he is still helping to build Lewis and Clark trails.The photo was taken by Aloysius Carino of Bellevue, Nebraska. Outside there was a pet show going on that morning, and there was a wonderful collection of dogs to look at.

Catfish Lake Restaurant is located just south of the base, near the July 21, 1804 Papillion Creek campsite of Lewis and Clark. The restaurant has several holding ponds of farm raised catfish for both its place and the Joe Tess Place restaurant in south Omaha. To reach it you go through the little tiny community of La Platte, Nebraska, which was originally called Larimer City. The two story Larimer hotel still stands here. Guess what William Larimer, Jr. did next?  He founded Denver, Colorado. When I was president of the Mouth of the Platte chapter of the Lewis and Clark Trail Heritage Foundation we were in charge of  a major grant from the National Park Service to erect signage along the Missouri River.  I lobbied hard to put a sign at the restaurant and lounge, and I am pleased to say that they made a nice little area for it, with benches and a sidewalk leading to the sign. The restaurant is also a destination in my book and on the website Trip Planner.

Bellevue, Nebraska is really the foundation of my history knowledge. It is the second oldest American town in the West, established in 1822. Only Pierre, South Dakota is older, established in 1818. I blogged about Omaha Chief Big Elk and the Fontenelle family recently. Several members of the family have been put in touch with each other after reading my blog Escape from Death and A Sister’s Revenge: the Daughters of Omaha Chief Big Elk.

Posted by Kira Gale on 06/04/2007 at 12:05 PM

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Monday, May 14, 2007

Pipestone National Monument, a Peaceful Place in Southwestern Minnesota

Todd Lone Wolf, Sisseton-Wahpeton Sioux, carves pipestone at Pipestone National MonumentPipestone National Monument Rocks and Waterfall

Pipestone National Monument is located in Pipestone, Minnesota near Sioux Falls, South Dakota. For countless generations it has been a place of peace, a neutral zone, where all Indians could come and obtain the sacred red pipe stone for their peace pipes.  Shown here is Todd Lone Wolf, a member of the Sisseton-Wahpeton Tribe of the Great Sioux Nation, a Dakota Sioux, preparing the soft red stone for carving. He makes gift items for the store at the National Monument. For the last 2000-3000 years Native Americans have visited this place. The quarrying of the pipe stone is specifically reserved for Indians of all tribes, under the regulations of the Secretary of the Interior. The National Park Service administers this site; there is a 4-5 year waiting list of Native American tribal members wanting to obtain a permit to quarry pipestone at the Monument.

The artist George Catlin, who visited this site in 1836 was the first Euro-American to visit  Pipestone. He sent a sample of the stone to a geologist for analysis, who named the stone "Catlinite" in his honor. Catlin was a friend of William Clark, who as Superintendent of Indian Affairs, issued him a pass to visit Indian Country. Many of Catlin’s paintings are on display at the Renwick Gallery, a Smithsonian Institution art museum located near the White House in Washington D. C.  The Smithsonian has an excellent website for the paintings of George Catlin, including a gallery of his paintings and classroom instruction.  This link will allow you to view 34 Catlin images, including his portrait of William Clark, and a view of Sergeant Charles Floyd’s grave site near Sioux City, Iowa. Long before it became America’s first national monument, Sgt. Floyd’s grave site was a "must see" destination. To learn more about the nearby area, visit Region Five (Nebraska/Iowa) and Region Six (South Dakota, North Dakota, Minnesota) of the Lewis and Clark Road Trips website Trip Planner. The area surrounding Pipestone National Monument is well worth a visit of several days. Each year, Pipestone stages an annual outdoor pageant, The Song of Hiawatha, on the last two weekends of July and the first weekend of August. The pageant has been staged annually since 1949. I hope to be able to attend it this year.

Posted by Kira Gale on 05/14/2007 at 09:02 AM

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Sunday, May 13, 2007

Lewis & Clark Statue Serves as Missouri River Flood Marker in St Louis

Up to His Neck, Clark with Hat Flood Marker Level 5-11-07 by Patty Wiggins



William Clark is up to his neck in flood waters under the Eads Bridge near the St Louis Arch in this photo taken by Patty Wiggins on May 11, 2007.  For comparison, Lewis and Clark and Seaman are still floating in their boat  in this photo taken by Betty Kluesner on March 23, 2007.  Any ideas for cute captions? Please use the comments section of this blog.

Posted by Kira Gale on 05/13/2007 at 12:04 PM

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